When I first set foot in Colchester, Britain’s oldest recorded town, I didn’t know how much of the country’s story could be squeezed into one place. Roman ruins stood beside Georgian houses, Norman castles rose above Victorian gardens, and cafés bustled on medieval streets. What struck me most was how walkable it all felt—you can step from ancient walls into a modern gallery in the span of a few minutes.
I want to share the path I took on my first proper visit, the route that left me with sore feet but a full heart. For anyone coming to Colchester for the first time, this itinerary winds through the must-sees, the corners where history and life collide, and the little tips that make visiting smoother.
1. Colchester Castle – Castle Park, CO1 1TJ
The journey through Colchester feels incomplete without starting at Colchester Castle, the crown jewel of the town and one of the finest Norman keeps in Europe. Rising above the carefully manicured lawns of Castle Park, the keep was built in the late 11th century by order of William the Conqueror, and it still stands on the foundations of the ancient Roman Temple of Claudius. The blending of Norman ambition with Roman engineering is astonishing—you can actually sense the weight of history pressing through the stonework.
Stepping inside the castle, I was immediately immersed in its dual role as both fortress and museum. Interactive exhibits make the past tangible: Roman mosaics glow under soft lighting, medieval weapons are displayed in a way that makes them feel like they could be lifted at any moment, and digital reconstructions bring vanished streets back to life. What impressed me most was how the museum doesn’t just display artefacts—it encourages you to touch, try, and imagine. For families, this makes it an engaging stop; for solo travellers like me, it’s a chance to wander slowly and really absorb the atmosphere.
The highlight of my visit was descending into the Roman foundations on a guided tour. The temperature dropped as I walked deeper underground, and my footsteps echoed against ancient stone. I paused for a moment, realizing that people had stood here almost two thousand years ago, when Colchester was the Roman capital of Britain. It gave me goosebumps—the kind of visceral reminder of history you can’t get from books alone.
- Opening hours: Daily, usually 10am–5pm.
- Cost: Adults around £10, children £5.50.
- Booking: Reserve via the Colchester Museums website or through GetYourGuide for bundled passes.
- Tip: Buy the combined ticket—it includes Hollytrees Museum and the Natural History Museum, excellent value for a full day’s exploring.
2. Castle Park – High Street, CO1 1UG
The grounds around the castle are as compelling as the keep itself. Castle Park is a lush sprawl of lawns, riverside walks, and flowerbeds.
I’ve spent hours wandering here in spring, the scent of blossoms filling the air, or in autumn, with leaves crunching underfoot. There are ice-cream stalls in summer, benches perfect for picnics, and even a bandstand where local groups perform.
Free to enter, this is where I often stop with a coffee or sandwich before moving on to the next landmark.
3. Roman Walls and Balkerne Gate – Balkerne Hill, CO3 3AA
Colchester’s Roman heritage is everywhere, but the Balkerne Gate—Britain’s largest surviving Roman gateway—is unforgettable. Walking through it feels like passing through time itself.
The walls still encircle much of the town, and strolling along them, I found myself imagining the bustle of Roman legionaries marching the same line.
- Cost: Free.
- Tip: Start at Balkerne Gate and follow the trail around the town for a deeper sense of the ancient grid plan.
4. Colchester Zoo – Maldon Road, Stanway, CO3 0SL
A short bus ride out of town brought me to Colchester Zoo, one of the best in Europe. With over 200 species, it’s a place where I’ve watched elephants bathe, fed giraffes by hand, and listened to children squealing at playful penguins.
- Tickets: Adults £22–£25, children £16–£18.
- Booking: Always cheaper online through the official site, or on platforms like Tiqets.
- Tip: Arrive early—this is a full-day trip, not a quick stop. And wear comfortable shoes; the park is sprawling.
5. Hollytrees Museum – Castle Park, CO1 1UG
Right beside the castle is Hollytrees Museum, a Georgian townhouse turned museum. Entry is free, and inside I found displays of domestic life across centuries—from Victorian toys to kitchen tools my grandmother might have recognised.
What touched me most was how intimate it felt. Unlike grand galleries, Hollytrees draws you into daily life, showing how ordinary Colcestrians lived.
6. Natural History Museum – High Street, CO1 1DN
Also in Castle Park, the Natural History Museum focuses on the environment of Essex. It’s housed in a former church, and I remember the odd but beautiful feeling of looking at fossils under stained-glass windows.
Free entry makes it a perfect short visit. Families with children will especially enjoy the interactive displays about local wildlife.
7. Firstsite – Lewis Gardens, CO1 1JH
When I wanted something modern, I turned to Firstsite, a golden-clad contemporary art gallery. The building itself is striking, curving like a shimmering wave.
Inside, I wandered through exhibitions of bold, sometimes challenging art, often featuring local voices alongside international names. Entry is free, and the café is excellent for a mid-route coffee.
8. St Botolph’s Priory – Priory Street, CO2 7EE
The ruins of St Botolph’s Priory are hauntingly beautiful. Founded in the 11th century, it was one of the first Augustinian priories in England.
Standing among the crumbling arches, I felt a strange serenity. The red and black Roman bricks used in its walls tie it visually back to the Roman town beneath.
Free to enter, it’s best in the golden light of late afternoon.
9. The Dutch Quarter – around East Stockwell Street, CO1
Wandering the Dutch Quarter is like stepping into a storybook. Narrow cobbled streets, timber-framed houses, and colourful facades make it one of my favourite strolls in Colchester.
Named for the Flemish weavers who settled here in the 16th century, it’s now a charming neighbourhood. I often pause at Tymperleys Tea Room (Trinity Street) for scones and tea amid historic surroundings.
10. Colchester Arts Centre – Church Street, CO1 1NF
Housed in a converted church, Colchester Arts Centre offers everything from comedy to concerts.
One evening, I stumbled into a folk music night, and the intimacy of the setting—stone walls, candlelight, voices echoing—was unforgettable.
Tickets vary (£10–£20). Book directly or through SeeTickets.
11. Mercury Theatre – Balkerne Gate, CO1 1PT
For a more polished performance, the Mercury Theatre is Colchester’s cultural gem. I once watched a Shakespeare play here, and the quality rivalled London productions but felt more personal.
- Cost: £15–£35.
- Booking: Via their official site, or sometimes discounted on TodayTix.
- Tip: Book dinner nearby—Banquet 1408 does excellent Chinese cuisine, easily reserved on OpenTable.
12. Bourne Mill – Bourne Road, CO2 8RT
This National Trust site is a former watermill surrounded by a tranquil pond.
I visited in summer, watching dragonflies skim the water, and it felt like stepping into a painting. Inside, the mill machinery tells stories of work and industry.
Entry is free for National Trust members; otherwise around £5. Book through the National Trust website.
13. Layer Marney Tower – Layer Marney, CO5 9US
A little outside town lies Layer Marney Tower, the tallest Tudor gatehouse in England.
Climbing its spiral staircase, I gazed over the Essex countryside, red brick glowing in sunlight. It’s quieter than bigger attractions, and that intimacy is part of the magic.
- Tickets: About £10 adults.
- Booking: Direct via the estate’s site.
- Tip: Combine with a countryside walk; buses from town are infrequent, so plan transport.
14. Colchester Market – High Street, Fridays & Saturdays
On market days, the High Street bursts with colour and food. Stalls sell everything from samosas to handmade crafts.
I once ate a warm pork and apple pasty here while listening to buskers, and it became one of my warmest Colchester memories.
Free to wander; bring cash though more stalls take card now.
Practical Tips for the Route
- Flights: For those flying in, the nearest airports are Stansted and Southend. I always compare prices on Skyscanner and Expedia.
- Trains: From London Liverpool Street, Colchester is under an hour. Advance tickets can be cheaper through Trainline.
- Hotels: I’ve stayed at GreyFriars (luxury), The George Hotel (historic), and Premier Inn (budget). Booking.com usually has the best rates.
- Food reservations: OpenTable is my go-to for booking restaurants in town. From fine dining to casual, it saves time on busy weekends.
- Attractions: For convenience, I sometimes bundle tickets with GetYourGuide or Tiqets, especially when combining the Zoo with other Essex sites.
Walking Away From Colchester
By the end of my first full route through Colchester, I was exhausted but exhilarated. My camera was full, my notebook crammed with scribbles, and my stomach satisfied from market bites and pub dinners.
What makes Colchester special isn’t just its history—it’s how layered it is. Roman walls beside modern art, a Norman castle above a Georgian museum, Tudor towers a bus ride away from contemporary theatre.
And as I boarded the train back toward London, I promised myself I would return, because Colchester always has another corner waiting to be discovered.
